Hi all getting on with a lengthy rebuild. Its a 11ft carvel boat probably from 1940's which required all the frames replacing and a hole repairing on the underside. The main holdup has been the 2 handed job of riveting - anothercouple of 2 hour sessions should complete the hull.
I've put a link to a pic I took in a hurry yesterday.
This is a terrific project. Congratulations! Are the planks caulked? If so, what do/will you use for caulk? Tony
From: TopT [via UK HBBR Forum] [mailto:[hidden email]] Sent: 11 November 2012 10:03 To: tony waller Subject: 14 months into a DIY rebuild
Hi all getting on with a lengthy rebuild. Its a 11ft carvel boat probably from 1940's which required all the frames replacing and a hole repairing on the underside. The main holdup has been the 2 handed job of riveting - anothercouple of 2 hour sessions should complete the hull. I've put a link to a pic I took in a hurry yesterday. Tony.
The 3 planks which repaired the hole are a tight fit - even suprised myself with that. Most of it will need re-caulking so probably cotton twist, maybe a covering of sealant, the books all seem to suggest coloured putty, though there must be better stuff to use. I'll have to get some advice, though with most things boats there's always another way to do it.
Well yes-ish, I rebuild/collect Stuart Turner engines, which the boat did have, and the exact fixings are in the boat. Its a RM3 with reversing gear, I may put a dynastart on it to save swinging on a dancing deck.
I thought it might be a Stuart. I'll never forget the sound they make. Way back in the 50s my Dad taught me to sail in a boat that had a 4hp Stuart Turner. He was a director of an engineering company, so the apprentices had done some work on the engine and made it look like new.
I'll never forget the 8hp Stuart Turner that supposedly powered a friends yacht I used to sail. It would always start fairly easily in port or on a mooring (with a few turns of the handle that poked out under the companionway steps), but would always refuse to start if you ever needed it when at sea.
I well recall a nasty night spent becalmed about 20 miles off the Brittany coast, slowly drifting around in circles whilst big ships motored past on both sides. No engine meant that the battery failed after a few hours, leaving us stuck in the middle of the shipping lane with no lights, just the loom of the light at I'le Vierge rotating around us.
I must have spent hours upside down under the cockpit trying to find out why it wouldn't start, all to no avail. Of course, as soon as the wind got up and we sailed into and tied up at L'Aber Vrac'h the next day the engine started fine, as if nothing had ever been wrong with it...............
Never have much liked Stuarts since then, or any two stroke engine, come to that.
Yes, ours was a b*!*%# to start sometimes, but a much better engine overall than the atrocious VIRE that we had in a later family boat. And then there was the awful Seagull Century Plus that I carted around the Irish Sea. I would have been better off carrying its weight in bricks instead.
It was a blessed relief, though, when I finally got a boat with a single cylinder Volvo diesel.
I've turned the boat now and cleaning out the planks prior to caulking, should I paint the space between, prior to stuffing the cotton in?, and whats the preffered paint. The above waterline will hopefully be varnish or similar. Same process for that?.
That reminds me so much of the little "put put" boats I used to hire by the hour off the beach at Largs, over 50 years ago. Believe it or not, I motored out to Cumbrae on a two hour hire, and chickened out of beaching there in case I was late back, at the age of 11. I've no memory of a lifejacket or buoyancy aid, maybe they were not required in 1960 as the boats were only supposed to go just off shore, on fine summer days. My father never knew.
I didn't know at that age that the passion for small boats would last a lifetime.
Passed another milestone by caulking all below the waterline - quite therapeutic compared to the previuos work , used an old paint scraper for a caulking iron due to the small gaps in the planking. - going to try and add a pic for the umpteenth time..............didn't work. The file is only 110kb so should be quick to upload - clicking on the insert image button stalls everything and needs a restart to go any further, by which time all the text etc is gone!!
Moving slowly on.... The caulkings done and flooring and engine mounts have been re-screwed. Next I am thinking of using silicon type sealant below waterline and painting afterwards, - any suggestions for capable product to fit in the standard squirt gun. (UK product)?
It's hard to paint over silicone, as paint doesn't stick to it at all well in my experience. Polysulphide and polyurethane caulks are both better in terms of being paintable and having much better adhesion than silicone to poor surfaces.
My personal preference is for polyurethane, mainly because it adheres so well and is relatively easy to clean up with a rag and some solvent. The best known is probably Sikaflex, but that is also the most expensive! In the past I've used Tigerseal (which seems near-identical to Sikaflex) but that's also now getting to be a bit pricey.
Another hiccup. Started yesterday on the bilge paintwork, already had the paint, also some primer. Did a couple or flooring beams in primer, then decided to to do it with bilge paint straight off. Did 1/4 of the bilge - the stern end.
Continued today and went over the first section with bilge paint and noticed that the paint tin scratched off the first layer easily - in fact it could be flaked off with a fingernail. Neither of the 2 paints had adhered to the under layer, . Looks like it adhered to the wood surface ok, but had not stuck to the original bilge paint which looks to me like the old "cardinal red" which was applied to outside steps. So whats the answer, burn it all off and start again?
Making some progress with the hull now watertight (untested!). and trying to put together the jigsaw of the remaining woodwork
Inevitably there are some parts missing or broken. Not sure how to approach everything so I could do with some opinions.
The gunwales consist of the plank, frame , top stringer, inner coaming, top cover and outer rubbing strip. The last 2 items are going to want some
work done on them.
Top cover: Not sure how long this should be, does it go right up to the bow? would you glue extra length on?
Rubbing strip: Will have to make at least one of these.
I only have one piece of the small decking over the cubby, which is routed lines filled
with yellow putty I think. Ideas on the probable original construction please.